This morning stated out early with me waking to make some
breakfast. Time in the kitchen is like meditation for me. I am alone, I will
occasionally turn on music, but most of the time it’s me and the sounds of a
whisk or a knife. And I love the thrill of making food, especially good tasting
healthy food. After a quick breakfast we headed down to the beach (which is
only about 5 minutes from Aunt Darcy’s house!) for surfing lessons. Yesterday
when we were at deep crick a lady we met had told us about a 4-h camp that we
could join. So at 8am we met about 20 other 4-h students on the beach. We
suited up in wet suits, as the water was about 50 degrees. One of the
volunteers gave us basic lessons on the sand, then handed us boards and out we
went.
I was not sure what to expect the first time I caught a
wave. I was just lying on the board, waiting. It came all of a sudden, and it
felt like a roller coaster. It was amazing. I continued to surf just laying
down on my belly for while. Learning a few things like how to paddle, what
waves were good, where to lean on the board. Then the instructor said I could
try kneeling/standing up. The first time I tried kneeling, it was hard to get
up. My wet suit kept sticking to the surf board. The instructor had said the
key to standing up is doing it quickly. So at this point I just tried to catch
a wave and get up quickly. After a few tries I got to my knees and was able to
stay there for an entire wave, which was pretty encouraging. Next I tried
standing, which was so much harder. By the end I had stood up twice, but both
times I fell off after standing up for just a few seconds. We had a snack
break, and after I was so excited to get back I the water, but the waves were
bigger because the tide was coming in, and my arms were very tired. I continued
to try to stand up, but I had started getting to far forward on the board. I would
catch a wave, but after it pushed me about 5 feet, the tip of the board would
go under the water (because I was too far forward) and I would flip of, the
board would flip over me, and when I would try to stand up the wave would come
over me and push me down. The first time this happened, I will admit I was
pretty freaked out. I love the water, but when you are trapped under 50 degree
water it feels like an eternity of trying to get up. In reality it might have
been all of 5 seconds. Then I would stand up, catch my breath, and head back
out to catch another wave. This happened three times before I figured out that
I was too far forward. After I adjusted that, I was too far back. It took a few
more tries but I finally got my position right again, and I caught a couple
waves. At this point I was so tired that I just belly surfed (which is still
amazingly awesome!) until it was time to be done. I am so very glad we got the
chance to surf! I now absolutely love doing it and cannot WAIT to try again
sometime!
After the surfing lesson it was already 12:30 and we headed
home to prepare for a few friends that we coming over at 4. I made the potatoes
for the cook out and helped set things up. I also got to make a few flower
arrangements, which was SO fun. My Aunt Darcy is like a crazy gardener, and has
so many beautiful flowers in her garden. I loved how the purple one turned out J
We enjoyed my Uncle Mikes ribs for dinner, which are the best I have ever had!
Just amazing!
Over all our stay in Oregon has held many adventures, and I
am so glad we were able to fit so much into our three day stay!
No comments:
Post a Comment